Chard ribs au gratin recipe

So here it is, Food Day. I have been debating what recipe to
share on this festive occasion. Or should I say, on this educational health-oriented
day? Should it be something fun? Or something healthy? What if I told you my hope
is that, when you read “Chard ribs au gratin”, you will forget how healthy or good
for you it might be, and think, “Oh how fun and delicious!”? Therein lies the topic
of this post. And perhaps of my blog as well, and one of the most fundamental
differences between the French take on food, and the American take.

Food Day is an awesome initiative (more info on it here), self-defined
as a nationwide celebration and a movement for healthy, affordable, and sustainable
food. I’m so glad they described it first as a celebration of food, but it does
have a definite, and admirable focus on health and nutrition. Out of curiosity,
I went on the French website for “La Semaine du Goût”, the French version of Food
Day,
except it’s a full week and the literal translation is “Week of Flavor”. Here’s
how they describe their main objectives (in that order):


The education of taste, of consumers, and children in
particular.


The diversity of flavors


Transparent and educational information on food products,
their origins, the means of
production, and their specificity


Raise awareness about professions and know-how in the food
industry


The pleasure of savoring food


Encourage food behaviors and consumption that fit with a
durable, balanced lifestyle

Notice how the word “health” isn’t mentioned once?

I was chatting with a French friend last week,
about the challenges of finding the time and motivation to exercise (one of my biggest challenges at the moment!). He was telling
me every time he tried to exercise as a “duty” or obligation, doing an activity he didn’t enjoy doing,
it never lasted longer than a couple of weeks. He was only able to exercise regularly
over a long period of time, making it a true habit, when he found something
he really loved doing, something that gave him pleasure (in his case, spinning and hiking).

A few days later, I heard on NPR a discussion on whether or
not to ban energy and caffeinated drinks for children. And an expert mentioned that
educating children about how bad those beverages are for them, did very little to
deter them
from consuming those beverages. In short, children don’t really care if something is good or bad
for them. In fact, something “bad’ might have the opposite effect on some children, and motivate
them even more to have it! (And vice versa for “good for you” items).

Then I remembered the study Karen Le Billon mentions in her
book and blog on different cultures and their view of food. When shown a picture
of a chocolate cake and asked what it made them think of, most Americans responded,
“calories”, “guilt”. Most French responded, “celebration”, “pleasure” (while the
rate of obesity is much lower in France, and children consume a lot
more vegetables than in other countries).

You probably have figured out by now where I’m going with
this… I contend that pleasure, fun and enjoyment are very powerful forces for durable behavior changes, while restrictions, a sense of duty, obligation and guilt are a sure bet to excess and rebellion.

Talking to children explicitly about health and nutrition concepts can be helpful,
but I think it’s limited. First you can only do it when kids are at least 3 or 4. But teaching kids about food and
balance can start much much earlier, and in a much more fundamental, visceral way in those formative first three years (that’s not to say it can’t be learned also later on, and even as an adult. The brain is very malleable and adaptable that way!) I really think the concept of “good for you” is extremely abstract to children and young people. Perhaps it requires a grasp of your own mortality to understand it. It just isn’t an good motivator. Pleasure, fun and enjoyment are the best, most durable, efficient tools
to help kids build healthy eating habits and have a balanced diet.
(Interestingly, the French always seem to emphasize “balanced nutrition” over “healthy nutrition”.)

The point is not to ban chocolate cake and other so-called “unhealthy”
treats all together (which may lead to binging and making that food all the more attractive for being “forbidden”). Those foods are not so unhealthy if had once in a while.
It’s all about finding balance, and making healthy foods a source of fun and pleasure, by nurturing, developing and educating children’s tastes and palates.

So I say let’s not hide vegetables with sweets (forget the apricot
banana spinach pouches!), and show our kids how delicious vegetables can be. Because
they really are. Let’s not say, “Eat your broccoli because it’s good for you”, but
“eat these rib chards au gratin because they’re yummy. They taste good, and they’re
colorful and fun.”

Introducing the fun component is pretty
easy with children, especially babies and toddlers, they can be so curious and open-minded. Here are some of the ways
I’ve tried to wire-connect “fun-pleasure” with “(good) food” for Pablo:



– By example. We really enjoy planning, shopping for, cooking
and eating our meals, we talk about it, we get excited about it. He definitely feeds
off on that.

– By letting him play with his food (within reason). Especially
from 8 months on, letting him experience food in a sensual, tactile way, different
textures, colors. I let him eat with his fingers to nurture an interest for what’s
in his plate, and a discerning palate. Now he’s starting to find that eating with a fork and spoon is very fun too. Phew!

– By nurturing his sense of smell, getting him to smell herbs,
dishes, produce, fruits. Smell is a huge part of the sense of taste. I get all
excited about smelling a cheese or bread, and so he does too…

– By having him participate in growing some things we eat. I
mostly have herbs for now, but plan on doing much more gardening of veggies with
him as I learn more about gardening myself.

– Talking to him about the origins of food, and taking him
to the countryside to see it, or show him in books. He knows apples, pears, oranges
come from trees. He knows milk comes from cows, fish from the sea, etc.

– By having him help with simple kitchen tasks. He had a
blast recently shelling peas and fava beans, tasting them raw.

– Using fun family food rituals (from my childhood, or new made-up ones)

– Talking to him about what foods feel like in his
mouth. If he tastes something very tangy, we do the “tickle in the mouth head
dance”, he giggles and asks for more…

Do you have other ways to make food fun and enjoyable? Let me know in the comments!
I’m always looking for new ideas.

So I leave you with this dish from Southern
France, which caught my eye a few months ago. I love
the look of rainbow chards, but never quite knew what to do with the colorful ribs.
This is definitely a good example of making something that is healthy and looks
pretty, but doesn’t taste like much on its own, taste delicious.

Chards ribs au gratin

Adapted from La bonne cuisine du Comté de Nice by Jacques Médecin

Serves about 4 as a side dish

Prep time: 5 mn + 10 mn
Cook time: 1 hr + 5-7 mn

Age for babies: 8-10 months, makes a good finger food cut up in small pieces (it’s very soft when cooked)

1 bunch of rainbow chards
1 onion (peeled, left whole)
3 garlic cloves
1 small bunch of Italian parsley
1/2 bay leaf
A few sprigs of fresh thyme
1 sprig of rosemary
1 anchovy fillet
2 tbsp flour
Olive oil
Grated cheese of choice
Salt & pepper

In a large pot, put 2 quarts of water with 1 garlic clove (whole), the onion. Tie together (or place in a small cloth bag) 1/2 of parsley, bay leaf, rosemary, and thyme, and add it in. Bring to a boil and simmer on low heat for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, “peel” the ribs. First separate the ribs from the leaves. (Recipes abound for chard leaves, you can boil the leaves for about 10 minutes in a large pot of water, drain well and eat either hot, creamed, or cold with vinaigrette, or you could try the rainbow chards cod brandade I blogged about.)

An optional step is to take the strings out of the ribs, as follows: take the stem, break it so the hollow part goes inward, and as you pull, you will see the strings, remove them with a small knife. Keep doing this every few inches on the stems to remove most of the strings. See the picture above to get a visual on this.

If you choose not to do that, just cut up the ribs in 2-3 inch pieces.

Then finely chop the remaining parsley and set aside. Mince the 2 remaining garlic cloves.

Put the rib pieces in the broth for 10 minutes, and drain. Discard the onion and herbs.

With a mortar and pestle, grind together the minced garlic and anchovy fillet.

In a small saucepan, heat 2 tbsp of olive oil with 2 tbsp of flour, stir with a wooden spoon until you obtain a “roux” (brown mixture). Add the garlic/anchovy paste and 4 tbsp of minced parsley. Mix well.  Add 2 ladles of the broth used to cook the ribs, and let simmer on low heat, stirring often, until you get a thick sauce.

Place the ribs in a baking dish, pour the sauce over them, and sprinkle a bit of grated cheese (Swiss or Parmesan).

Broil for 5-7 minutes, until golden on top.

Pasta salad with Swiss chard pesto

Today I am posting a cold pasta salad. This recipe is perfect for the warmer months to come and it makes large use of Swiss chard in its pesto, so it is perfect for those of you who receive a CSA box and are overwhelmed by leafy spring greens.

I spent the last weekend at a friend’s place in California. I had a work commitment there and it was a good chance of catching up. When she asked me to help her create a dish for a family visit that made good use of some of the many greens she had in the fridge I started thinking about one of my mom’s quiches made with spinach, tuna and black olives.

Since we needed to make food for 10 people, I thought a pasta would be much easier to make in large quantities. Also, making a pesto would allow using a bunch of Swiss chard that was still delicious, but looked a bit battered. Adding tuna and olives would recreate much of the flavor profile of the quiche and the tomato would add freshness and texture.

We prepared the pasta in the morning and then let it cool down until lunch time, when we served it to the whole family. It received thumbs up from the whole family: from grandparents down to grandchildren.

Pasta salad with Swiss chard pesto

Ingredients

Swiss chard pesto

    • 1 bunch Swiss chard
    • 1/2 cup pumpkin seeds
    • 1/4 cup parmesan
    • 1 small garlic clove
    • 2 tbsp olive oil

Pasta salad

  • 2 lb pasta (I used bow ties)
  • Swiss chard pesto
  • 5 medium tomatoes
  • 2 cans tuna packed in oil
  • 1/4 cup black pitted olives

Directions

Swiss chard pesto

    1. In a food processor or blender, process the Swiss chard with the rest of the ingredients until smooth. It might help to add a bit of water to get the blending process going.

Pasta salad

  1. Cook the pasta al dente in a lot of salted boiling water.
  2. Meanwhile, dice the tomatoes and place in bowl. add in the drained tuna and the drained olives.
  3. When it is ready, drain the cooked pasta and dress it with the pesto. Add oil if the pesto is too thick and the pasta sticks.
  4. Top with the tuna and tomato salad.
  5. Serve warm or at room temperature.